24 settembre 2009

16 agosto - Pabegou - Taneka Beri - Autorità

A Pabegou c’è un dispensario gestito da due suore: due portenti. La più anziana, quella che ci fa visitare il luogo, parla pure l’italiano: ha lavorato tre anni al Gaslini di Genova (e ha conosciuto Giovanni Paolo II, ci dice con orgoglio). Flavio ha fatto molto per questo dispensario: ha costruito padiglioni, sta alzando un altro edificio e sta occupandosi del nuovo serbatoio d’acqua. La suora è uno spettacolo, ci racconta che ogni giorno vengono in consultazione dai 10 ai 25 pazienti e che nella maggior parte dei casi sono malati di malaria. Spesso anche anemici (ça va avec), soprattutto i bambini. Anche perché, commenta, “vengono da noi quando proprio non ne possono più, quindi ci troviamo spesso a operare in situazioni di urgenza”.
Quando ci fa vedere l’armadietto dei medicinali trasecolo: non c’è quasi nulla. Eppure alla suora non mancano energia né buonumore. Tra l’altro è superospitale e ci trattiene per dividere con lei, con la consorella suor Nicole, con il prete venuto da Djougou a celebrare la messa e con il suo assistente, la colazione. Visto che l’abbiamo già fatta da Rosalie, la mamma di Justine, accettiamo solo una tazza del più curioso Nescafé che abbia mai assaggiato: alla citronella.
In seguito andiamo a visitare uno dei due villaggi Taneka, Taneka Beri. L’altro, Taneka Koko, si trova a circa 1,5 km a fondovalle. Prima tappa il guaritore, almeno secondo Roland, perché secondo la descrizione che ne dà Marco Aime nelle “Nuvole dell’Atacora” sembra essere un boro-te, cioè una sorta di sacerdote. Il venerabile vegliardo fuma una lunga pipa piena di tabacco ed è vestito, o piuttosto a malapena coperto, da una pelle di capra. Dopo i convenevoli e le domande di rito paghiamo 2000 franchi per fargli una foto. E il suo consigliere si incazza perché vuole una foto (e soprattutto i soldi) anche lui.
Ce ne andiamo perciò rapidamente verso la grotta sacra di Varun, guidati da uno dei giovani figli del re. Il sentiero attraversa il villaggio e passa davanti all’albero sacro dove vengono praticate le circoncisioni e le escissioni (sebbene, come ho già scritto, siano proibite, non è escluso che vengano ancora praticate. Un’oretta più tardi dal re vedremo un manifesto che fa propaganda contro l’escissione e dice che la mancata denuncia di un’escissione viene sanzionata con un’ammenda da 50 mila a 100 mila CFA). Poi il cammino si inabissa in un mare d’alta erba, con parcelle di terreno coltivate a manioca. Attorno un paesaggio stupendo: ancora quello dell’Atacora. Dopo una ventina di minuti la strada scende rapida (e si intravede Taneka Koko, il secondo villaggio) per poi inerpicarsi verso la grotta. All’interno della grotta i giovani uomini che dovranno essere circoncisi (hanno 18 anni) vengono a fare i sacrifici: ognuno di loro deve ammazzare un animale. La carne di questi ultimi verrà divisa tra tutti gli abitanti del villaggio (260 secondo il re, ma non conta quelli che sono andati a lavorare nelle fattorie), ma parte dei resti, residui di pelle, piume, ossa e teschi, rimane qui a comporre il feticcio. Accanto a questo, fino a poco tempo fa si apriva l’imboccatura di un tunnel che portava fino al palazzo reale di Djougou. Per entrarvi bisognava essere iniziati e possedere poteri mistici.
Rientriamo al villaggio e andiamo a rendere omaggio al re, che regge un bellissimo scettro intagliato, probabilmente in teak: sulla cima un leone che sovrasta una capanna, entrambi retti dalla groppa di un elefante, che, a sua volta, simboleggia il re. Sotto l’elefante una figura d’uomo, il figlio del re, e tre figure di donne, che, come le famose scimmiette, si coprono una le orecchie, l’altra gli occhi, l’altra ancora la bocca: non sento, non vedo e non parlo per la pace del focolare. Il re, che esercita il suo potere aiutato da un consiglio di dieci saggi, è stato designato dai membri della famiglia alla morte del precedente sovrano, cinque anni fa. Ha due mogli e dieci figli e ha un aspetto pacioso. Per i soliti 2000 franchi possiamo fotografarlo, ma, più affabile del boro-te, vuole anche che facciamo una seconda foto insieme.
Ore 19.30 circa: maison de Rosalie, Djougou: primo black out da quando siamo in Benin. Non funzionano neppure i cellulari, quando manca la corrente: bizzarro. La luce torna dopo una mezz’oretta, ma i ripetitori continuano a essere spenti, dunque il cellulare di Carlito, con suo grande scorno, rimane muto.



* Nel panorama del Benin proliferano alberi di metallo bianchi e rossi: i ripetitori. Tutti hanno un cellulare.



(nelle foto: dall'alto, il boro-te e il re di Taneka Beri)

8 commenti:

stefano ha detto...

Salve, sono Stefano Schirru l'amministratore de ilviaggiolastminute.it .

Da poco ho introdotto una piccola redazione nel blog che mi permette di aggiornare più volte al giorno con tanti articoli, recensioni e news sul mondo dei viaggi e del turismo.

Visto che stò cercando di diffondere il mio progetto mi piacerebbe che lei ne parlasse nel suo blog o, eventualmente, permettermi di scrivere un guest post per lei.

Grazie per l'attenzione.

Stefano Schirru
imgnetblog@gmail.com

virginie ha detto...

Buongiorno Stefano,
la ringrazio per essere passato di qui, ma declino la sua offerta: il suo è un blog a carattere commerciale, il mio no. In ogni caso, essere citato dal mio blog non le porterebbe gran pubblico: ho pochissimi, seppur fedeli, lettori.
Buon lavoro
virginie

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